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Sunday 13 May 2012

Paris Fashion Week Live: Best of the Collections



What to Wear Next
This is the place to find the best of the best, as it unfolds, edited so you can actually understand it, wear it, and get very excited to buy it.


Hermès: The Take
With fashion's swing towards old-school luxury with modern twists, the house of Hermès looks even more on message than usual. Of course, Hermès, did things its own way. With taste. Designer Veronique Nichanian continues to steer the men's line with the simple conviction that men want memorable clothes more than they want fashion. That much was supremely evident in the Fall 2011 line. A narrower and shorter breed of jacket in double-face cashmere was worn over fine gauge knits and relaxed flannels. Big flowing greatcoats in army green or navy double-face cashmere played to the season's big-over-little theme. But the one "I would actual consider murdering someone to own it" item was a cloudy gray three-quarter-length lightweight shearling car coat. At several thousand dollars, it's not a piece for everyone, but what are dreams for anyway? —Nick Sullivan


Hermès: The Takeaway

The gray shearling coat. Maybe one of the short blazer outfits? Or the green greatcoat...


Valentino: The Take
After keeping a low profile for the last few seasons, Valentino made an unexpected return to Paris Fashion Week. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who also design Valentino's women's line, have created a new vision for the storied Roman fashion house, a stark contrast with the gilt and ormolu interiors of its Parisian headquarters. The collection's sportswear was deceptively simple, yet precisely cut. Like Valentino's short beige trench, piped in brown leather, or its leather pea coat, which was classically inspired, yet raw edged and backed in black jersey — a nod to the current preoccupation with uncomplicated clothing. Clean modern lines, inventive ideas and luxurious cloths combined to make a pleasingly modern departure at a time when menswear is ravenous for fresh, exciting ideas.


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